Tuesday 8 March 2016

Skiing the Vallee Blanche, Chamonix Mont Blanc

What an amazing day!! The Vallee Blanche in Chamonix is a 20km off-piste ski route with a vertical descent of approximately 2700m. The views on a good day are stunning and being surrounded by high mountain peaks gives a real sensation of being in an unspoilt wilderness. This is one of those experiences that you will be ever forget. 
Henrietta at the bottom of the Aiguille de Midi Cable car
  Henrietta, my youngest daughter,  and I have just returned from one of the most memorable days skiing ever. The Vallee Blanche has been on my list of things to do for a very long time and today we were blessed by some of what were apparently the best conditions of this year's ski season to date! Blue skies, light winds at the top of the Aiguille de Midi and unbelievably 60cm of fresh powder snow - no wonder it was busy. A relatively early start saw us at the bottom Aiguille de Midi cable car at 8.45am and after waiting for our telecabin number to be displayed  (we were on the 19th one of the morning - there's  a reservation system during the ski season which seems to, based upon our experience, work well). By 9.45am we were up at 3750m at the top and suffering the typical shortness of breath that such a rapid ascent to altitude brings. The temperature was apparently -21 according to the digital display within the tunnel that's  been carved out of the rock, and -32 taking into account the wind chill! After a few pictures from the viewing platform above the cable car of Mont Blanc and across into both Italy and Switzerland it was time to rope up and start the treacherous descent down the snow ridge that links to the glacier below.
Henrietta and I (she's the good looking one even wearing goggles!)
 
Mont Blanc
    Poor Henrietta really doesn't likes heights however she did extremely well to manage the narrow roped track down to the where the skiing starts (which took around 15 minutes). Any slip here without being roped up would certainly lead to your death as you would first slide down a 60 degree snow slope before entering free space and then land on some rocks some 600m below you.  
Skis safely secured to Henrietta's rucsac for the initial descent
 
The descent from the Aiguille de Midi
The first part of the route is straight forward passing close beneath Mont Blanc du Tacul and then the descent starts in earnest with slopes increasing in angle and difficulty. After approximately an hour and a half we were just below the Requin hut and enjoying not only a picnic lunch but also spectacular views of the the Dru, the Aiguille Verte, the Dent du Geant to name but a few and all in stunning surroundings coupled with blue skies.  
First part of the route
 
Looking back up to the Aiguille de Midi
The second  half of the day was much more straightforward gliding along the freshly snow capped glacier down to beneath the Montenvers train station and the end of the Mer de Glace.  Here we had a steep 25 minute climb up the side of the valley to take us up over a small ridge and then down into Chamonix itself.  
Negotiating the seracs du Geant
Lunch time!
Looking at the upper reaches of the Mer de Glace at our lunch stop
Requin hut on the sky line towards the left
After an exhilarating day! The end and waiting for the bus
After a well deserved Coke and beer we the made the final 30 minute ski back down though the forest and into Chamonix. What a day!!   By chance we met Ben Bradford of Vertical Frontiers at the end who said how lucky we had been with the conditions and that it was the first time he had been able to ski all the way back into town. Lucky indeed. Stay safe

Sunday 6 March 2016

Book review: Up and away - The Hard Road to Everest by Doug Scott




I've was fortunate to be selected to write a review of the above book by the Mountain Training Associaton for The Professional Mountaineer magazine which is circulated to all British Mountain Guides as well as members of The Association of Mountain Instructors as well as members of the MTA. I believe the circulation is in excess of 6000.

Below is a transcript of the review - to cut it short - it's an excellent book!

Enjoy and stay safe

Ian



‘Up and Away – the hard road to Everest’ Doug Scott Book Review


By Ian Ridley



“No matter how much we might try to convince ourselves that Everest is just another mountain, reaching its summit changes everyone who climbs it, in one way or another. It is the peak with the most history, the greatest height, the lowest temperatures and the wildest storms” so says Doug Scott towards the end of his authoritative and hugely impressive autobiography. Up and Away, is the first volume of a two part collection, that chronicles the earliest years of his child hood and a very normal up-bringing through to adult hood and becoming a teacher, and finally to summiting Mount Everest via the south-west face on 24 September 1975 aged 34.

I’ve only met Doug Scott twice, well I say ‘’met”, I’ve been to two of his lectures!

I was fortunate to attend a school in London back in 1977 when he kindly visited to give a lecture. Aged 15 and interested in climbing but having been no further than the Lake District, I was mesmerised by his story. In particular I remember one of his stunning photographs looking out across the Western Cwm, the highest valley in the world, towards Pumori with white fluffy clouds billowing up from below. It made me think that one day I too would love to look down upon the clouds from such a lofty vantage point. That dream was realised when on 25 May 2012 I too stood on the summit of Everest. 

So it was with great anticipation that I awaited a copy of ‘Up and About - the hard road to Everest’ to land on my doorstep.

As with any book, you tend to read the cover, then see how many pages the book has, the size of the print, the number of photographs which in this case is prodigious with over 230, both colour and black-and-white. However what really stood out for me the comprehensiveness of the index, which extends to 11 pages (with around 1900 entries) – this is not only an autobiography but an encyclopaedia of climbing! And herein lies a clue to the mind-set of this legendary man and the awe-inspiring life he has led.

For those too young to remember the 60’s and 70s, Doug Scott is one of the country’s, indeed world’s, top climbers, having led numerous first ascents across the globe and his book is a tremendously detailed account of the world of climbing during that era. It’s also a testament to his staggering memory, given the clarity in which he recalls his life.

There’s no doubt that climbing is in every sinew of his body.  However the book, is very honest and I suspect, for him writing the book was also cathartic. He writes with true passion but his humility and modesty shine through as he reflects on his experiences. There’s plenty on the successes of other climbers and how without them he would never have achieved so much. He was obviously very driven to feed his climbing habit which he admits lead to some selfish behaviour. Most climbers can relate to that but will also share the link between climbing in the mountains and respect for nature and the people who live there; and the difficulty of leaving loved ones at home for so long.

Reading the book, one encounters moments of great sadness recording the loss of friends, but there are enjoyably amusing moments too.

‘Up and About’ is not only an excellent account of what drives Doug Scott, but also how the mountains have changed his perspective on life. It is also an excellent social commentary on the massive changes to post-war Britain in the 50s, 60s and 70s.

 Would I recommend it? – Most definitely, to climbers and non-climbers alike.


Wednesday 2 March 2016

New website and some great vidoe courtesy of Petzl




Finally after weeks of work  (and I know it doesn't actually look like it!) my new website is up and running. www.mountain-skills.com

If you spot a typo or a link that isn't working then do let me know so I can get it sorted.

For now though, if you've got 5 minutes check out a new glacier travel safety system form Petzl.

Even if you don't think you'll ever be traveling over glaciers it's worth watching just for the amazing scenery and skiing - certainly beats a dull day in the UK!

Enjoy and stay safe


Ian